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How to lift/raise/repair a segment of concrete slab?
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I have an 8-year old concrete slab around my pool. One slab has sunk by about 2 inches on the short side. The slab measures about 6 feet by 3 feet by 4 inches. It rests against the pool structure on the long side. The opposite long side is grass. The two short sides are separated by a 1 inch wood separator from other slabs. There is a thin "cool deck" covering of on the slab.
My question: what is the best choice of action for me to repair this?
Can I raise it to fill underneath it with sand? How? How do I prevent the slab from cracking?
Should I pour concrete on it? It will be tapering from 2 inches to 0 and probably won't stick. Also the cool deck cover gets covered by concrete.
concrete leveling
New contributor
add a comment |
I have an 8-year old concrete slab around my pool. One slab has sunk by about 2 inches on the short side. The slab measures about 6 feet by 3 feet by 4 inches. It rests against the pool structure on the long side. The opposite long side is grass. The two short sides are separated by a 1 inch wood separator from other slabs. There is a thin "cool deck" covering of on the slab.
My question: what is the best choice of action for me to repair this?
Can I raise it to fill underneath it with sand? How? How do I prevent the slab from cracking?
Should I pour concrete on it? It will be tapering from 2 inches to 0 and probably won't stick. Also the cool deck cover gets covered by concrete.
concrete leveling
New contributor
1
I would imagine you could pour self-leveling cement on top of the sunken slab. It will (as it says on the tin) level itself on the surface. You'd probably have to create a dam to prevent it from running off the low edge. You may need to rough up the surface of the existing slab to create a key so they stick together well, or maybe even some holes for it to key into. You'd probably need to rough up the surface as it cures so it's not slick under wet feet. You may want to investigate and fix the cause of the sinking first, though. (Not enough detail/experience to warrant a full answer.)
– FreeMan
yesterday
add a comment |
I have an 8-year old concrete slab around my pool. One slab has sunk by about 2 inches on the short side. The slab measures about 6 feet by 3 feet by 4 inches. It rests against the pool structure on the long side. The opposite long side is grass. The two short sides are separated by a 1 inch wood separator from other slabs. There is a thin "cool deck" covering of on the slab.
My question: what is the best choice of action for me to repair this?
Can I raise it to fill underneath it with sand? How? How do I prevent the slab from cracking?
Should I pour concrete on it? It will be tapering from 2 inches to 0 and probably won't stick. Also the cool deck cover gets covered by concrete.
concrete leveling
New contributor
I have an 8-year old concrete slab around my pool. One slab has sunk by about 2 inches on the short side. The slab measures about 6 feet by 3 feet by 4 inches. It rests against the pool structure on the long side. The opposite long side is grass. The two short sides are separated by a 1 inch wood separator from other slabs. There is a thin "cool deck" covering of on the slab.
My question: what is the best choice of action for me to repair this?
Can I raise it to fill underneath it with sand? How? How do I prevent the slab from cracking?
Should I pour concrete on it? It will be tapering from 2 inches to 0 and probably won't stick. Also the cool deck cover gets covered by concrete.
concrete leveling
concrete leveling
New contributor
New contributor
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
49.2k456125
New contributor
asked yesterday
MaesumiMaesumi
1214
1214
New contributor
New contributor
1
I would imagine you could pour self-leveling cement on top of the sunken slab. It will (as it says on the tin) level itself on the surface. You'd probably have to create a dam to prevent it from running off the low edge. You may need to rough up the surface of the existing slab to create a key so they stick together well, or maybe even some holes for it to key into. You'd probably need to rough up the surface as it cures so it's not slick under wet feet. You may want to investigate and fix the cause of the sinking first, though. (Not enough detail/experience to warrant a full answer.)
– FreeMan
yesterday
add a comment |
1
I would imagine you could pour self-leveling cement on top of the sunken slab. It will (as it says on the tin) level itself on the surface. You'd probably have to create a dam to prevent it from running off the low edge. You may need to rough up the surface of the existing slab to create a key so they stick together well, or maybe even some holes for it to key into. You'd probably need to rough up the surface as it cures so it's not slick under wet feet. You may want to investigate and fix the cause of the sinking first, though. (Not enough detail/experience to warrant a full answer.)
– FreeMan
yesterday
1
1
I would imagine you could pour self-leveling cement on top of the sunken slab. It will (as it says on the tin) level itself on the surface. You'd probably have to create a dam to prevent it from running off the low edge. You may need to rough up the surface of the existing slab to create a key so they stick together well, or maybe even some holes for it to key into. You'd probably need to rough up the surface as it cures so it's not slick under wet feet. You may want to investigate and fix the cause of the sinking first, though. (Not enough detail/experience to warrant a full answer.)
– FreeMan
yesterday
I would imagine you could pour self-leveling cement on top of the sunken slab. It will (as it says on the tin) level itself on the surface. You'd probably have to create a dam to prevent it from running off the low edge. You may need to rough up the surface of the existing slab to create a key so they stick together well, or maybe even some holes for it to key into. You'd probably need to rough up the surface as it cures so it's not slick under wet feet. You may want to investigate and fix the cause of the sinking first, though. (Not enough detail/experience to warrant a full answer.)
– FreeMan
yesterday
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
This slab is small enough that you should be able to easily lift it out and repair the base soil. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break.
- From the lawn side, trench along the slab about 6" wide and to the bottom of the concrete. Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp.
- Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. Work in stages and block it up as you go.
- Once you're high enough, move the blocks rearward, underneath the slab. Continue maneuvering it until the entire slab is floating above the level of the surrounding slabs.
- Lever the raised slab sideways as needed to gain access to the soil below. It's not necessary to move it completely out of the hole area.
- Repair your soil base using non-organic sand or gravel. Tamp it well and leave it 1/2" higher than necessary.
- Move your slab back into position and remove the blocks. Be careful not to drop it to prevent damage to it and the surrounding slabs.
Allow the slab to settle for a few weeks, ideally through a rain event. If it doesn't rain, flood the area well to allow the soil to compact and settle.
If you find that you've left it too high, a hose worked under the slab from the lawn side will allow you to wash out some fill soil. Work slowly so as to not go too far.
This has the added benefit of seeing what caused the sinking originally - an animal burrow, erosion, bad installation, whatever - and take steps to remedy that. In the case of erosion, for example, you might add a drainage tube to allow water through without washing out more dirt.
– ArmanX
15 hours ago
add a comment |
You might want to look around your local area for contractors that offer 'mudjacking'. Essentially they pump a grout-like mixture using a powerful hydraulic pump under the slab and bring it level. I think it generally requires cutting a hole in the slab.
1
This works well, but would be costly for a single small repair. The holes are about 1" and the contractor fills them with repair cement.
– isherwood
yesterday
add a comment |
One method to correct this is to jack up the sunken edge to its original height and fill the space between the slab and the ground underneath with polyurethane expanding foam. The details of the process are way beyond an answer here, but in a nutshell:
You dig a trench along the sunken edge so you can get jacks under the slab then slowly, carefully jack it into position. Once it's in position, you drill holes through the slab and squirt the expanding foam into the void below. Once the foam sets you can remove the jacks, backfill the trench you dug, and you're set.
Note - per comments - the spray foam that's readily available for filling gaps and cracks is probably not what you want, they make specialty foam for this purpose.
Note that this doesn't necessarily fix whatever made the slab sink. If it was just settling of the soil under the slab it might not happen again and you're done. If there is water runoff eroding the soil under the slab, it's likely the soil under the slab and foam will erode again. Whatever method you use to fix this - even if you remove and replace the slab - you'll want to remedy any drainage problems first so that your fix holds.
I wouldn't use foam. Your procedure is fine, but foam isn't a reliable support.
– isherwood
yesterday
@isherwood - have you seen problems with foam? I did the drilling for a friend that used this method but I don't know how it's held up for him. I wouldn't have thought of foam as reliable enough, but I did see there were a lot of DIY videos on YouTube talking about foam.
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
It compresses and degrades over time, especially where freeze-thaw cycles occur and where there's regular vibration, such as from foot traffic. That said, I'm talking about commonly available cans of urethane. Maybe there's something more dense to be had.
– isherwood
yesterday
There is ... not sure if something like this is available in small quantities - specialty-products.com/spi_products/eco-rise-3-0 ... I am sure that my friend used something from the helpful hardware place
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
2
I used car jacks to lift smaller sections ( 4' X 2.5' ) and pushed in rocks ; it takes time and work but can be done . Scissors jacks can fit into a fairly low space. Crank it up, put in second jack, remove first jack and put rock into the hole under the jack , repeat,repeat,repeat.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
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3 Answers
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3 Answers
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This slab is small enough that you should be able to easily lift it out and repair the base soil. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break.
- From the lawn side, trench along the slab about 6" wide and to the bottom of the concrete. Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp.
- Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. Work in stages and block it up as you go.
- Once you're high enough, move the blocks rearward, underneath the slab. Continue maneuvering it until the entire slab is floating above the level of the surrounding slabs.
- Lever the raised slab sideways as needed to gain access to the soil below. It's not necessary to move it completely out of the hole area.
- Repair your soil base using non-organic sand or gravel. Tamp it well and leave it 1/2" higher than necessary.
- Move your slab back into position and remove the blocks. Be careful not to drop it to prevent damage to it and the surrounding slabs.
Allow the slab to settle for a few weeks, ideally through a rain event. If it doesn't rain, flood the area well to allow the soil to compact and settle.
If you find that you've left it too high, a hose worked under the slab from the lawn side will allow you to wash out some fill soil. Work slowly so as to not go too far.
This has the added benefit of seeing what caused the sinking originally - an animal burrow, erosion, bad installation, whatever - and take steps to remedy that. In the case of erosion, for example, you might add a drainage tube to allow water through without washing out more dirt.
– ArmanX
15 hours ago
add a comment |
This slab is small enough that you should be able to easily lift it out and repair the base soil. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break.
- From the lawn side, trench along the slab about 6" wide and to the bottom of the concrete. Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp.
- Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. Work in stages and block it up as you go.
- Once you're high enough, move the blocks rearward, underneath the slab. Continue maneuvering it until the entire slab is floating above the level of the surrounding slabs.
- Lever the raised slab sideways as needed to gain access to the soil below. It's not necessary to move it completely out of the hole area.
- Repair your soil base using non-organic sand or gravel. Tamp it well and leave it 1/2" higher than necessary.
- Move your slab back into position and remove the blocks. Be careful not to drop it to prevent damage to it and the surrounding slabs.
Allow the slab to settle for a few weeks, ideally through a rain event. If it doesn't rain, flood the area well to allow the soil to compact and settle.
If you find that you've left it too high, a hose worked under the slab from the lawn side will allow you to wash out some fill soil. Work slowly so as to not go too far.
This has the added benefit of seeing what caused the sinking originally - an animal burrow, erosion, bad installation, whatever - and take steps to remedy that. In the case of erosion, for example, you might add a drainage tube to allow water through without washing out more dirt.
– ArmanX
15 hours ago
add a comment |
This slab is small enough that you should be able to easily lift it out and repair the base soil. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break.
- From the lawn side, trench along the slab about 6" wide and to the bottom of the concrete. Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp.
- Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. Work in stages and block it up as you go.
- Once you're high enough, move the blocks rearward, underneath the slab. Continue maneuvering it until the entire slab is floating above the level of the surrounding slabs.
- Lever the raised slab sideways as needed to gain access to the soil below. It's not necessary to move it completely out of the hole area.
- Repair your soil base using non-organic sand or gravel. Tamp it well and leave it 1/2" higher than necessary.
- Move your slab back into position and remove the blocks. Be careful not to drop it to prevent damage to it and the surrounding slabs.
Allow the slab to settle for a few weeks, ideally through a rain event. If it doesn't rain, flood the area well to allow the soil to compact and settle.
If you find that you've left it too high, a hose worked under the slab from the lawn side will allow you to wash out some fill soil. Work slowly so as to not go too far.
This slab is small enough that you should be able to easily lift it out and repair the base soil. Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break.
- From the lawn side, trench along the slab about 6" wide and to the bottom of the concrete. Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp.
- Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. Work in stages and block it up as you go.
- Once you're high enough, move the blocks rearward, underneath the slab. Continue maneuvering it until the entire slab is floating above the level of the surrounding slabs.
- Lever the raised slab sideways as needed to gain access to the soil below. It's not necessary to move it completely out of the hole area.
- Repair your soil base using non-organic sand or gravel. Tamp it well and leave it 1/2" higher than necessary.
- Move your slab back into position and remove the blocks. Be careful not to drop it to prevent damage to it and the surrounding slabs.
Allow the slab to settle for a few weeks, ideally through a rain event. If it doesn't rain, flood the area well to allow the soil to compact and settle.
If you find that you've left it too high, a hose worked under the slab from the lawn side will allow you to wash out some fill soil. Work slowly so as to not go too far.
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
49.2k456125
This has the added benefit of seeing what caused the sinking originally - an animal burrow, erosion, bad installation, whatever - and take steps to remedy that. In the case of erosion, for example, you might add a drainage tube to allow water through without washing out more dirt.
– ArmanX
15 hours ago
add a comment |
This has the added benefit of seeing what caused the sinking originally - an animal burrow, erosion, bad installation, whatever - and take steps to remedy that. In the case of erosion, for example, you might add a drainage tube to allow water through without washing out more dirt.
– ArmanX
15 hours ago
This has the added benefit of seeing what caused the sinking originally - an animal burrow, erosion, bad installation, whatever - and take steps to remedy that. In the case of erosion, for example, you might add a drainage tube to allow water through without washing out more dirt.
– ArmanX
15 hours ago
This has the added benefit of seeing what caused the sinking originally - an animal burrow, erosion, bad installation, whatever - and take steps to remedy that. In the case of erosion, for example, you might add a drainage tube to allow water through without washing out more dirt.
– ArmanX
15 hours ago
add a comment |
You might want to look around your local area for contractors that offer 'mudjacking'. Essentially they pump a grout-like mixture using a powerful hydraulic pump under the slab and bring it level. I think it generally requires cutting a hole in the slab.
1
This works well, but would be costly for a single small repair. The holes are about 1" and the contractor fills them with repair cement.
– isherwood
yesterday
add a comment |
You might want to look around your local area for contractors that offer 'mudjacking'. Essentially they pump a grout-like mixture using a powerful hydraulic pump under the slab and bring it level. I think it generally requires cutting a hole in the slab.
1
This works well, but would be costly for a single small repair. The holes are about 1" and the contractor fills them with repair cement.
– isherwood
yesterday
add a comment |
You might want to look around your local area for contractors that offer 'mudjacking'. Essentially they pump a grout-like mixture using a powerful hydraulic pump under the slab and bring it level. I think it generally requires cutting a hole in the slab.
You might want to look around your local area for contractors that offer 'mudjacking'. Essentially they pump a grout-like mixture using a powerful hydraulic pump under the slab and bring it level. I think it generally requires cutting a hole in the slab.
answered yesterday
JimmyJamesJimmyJames
1,140619
1,140619
1
This works well, but would be costly for a single small repair. The holes are about 1" and the contractor fills them with repair cement.
– isherwood
yesterday
add a comment |
1
This works well, but would be costly for a single small repair. The holes are about 1" and the contractor fills them with repair cement.
– isherwood
yesterday
1
1
This works well, but would be costly for a single small repair. The holes are about 1" and the contractor fills them with repair cement.
– isherwood
yesterday
This works well, but would be costly for a single small repair. The holes are about 1" and the contractor fills them with repair cement.
– isherwood
yesterday
add a comment |
One method to correct this is to jack up the sunken edge to its original height and fill the space between the slab and the ground underneath with polyurethane expanding foam. The details of the process are way beyond an answer here, but in a nutshell:
You dig a trench along the sunken edge so you can get jacks under the slab then slowly, carefully jack it into position. Once it's in position, you drill holes through the slab and squirt the expanding foam into the void below. Once the foam sets you can remove the jacks, backfill the trench you dug, and you're set.
Note - per comments - the spray foam that's readily available for filling gaps and cracks is probably not what you want, they make specialty foam for this purpose.
Note that this doesn't necessarily fix whatever made the slab sink. If it was just settling of the soil under the slab it might not happen again and you're done. If there is water runoff eroding the soil under the slab, it's likely the soil under the slab and foam will erode again. Whatever method you use to fix this - even if you remove and replace the slab - you'll want to remedy any drainage problems first so that your fix holds.
I wouldn't use foam. Your procedure is fine, but foam isn't a reliable support.
– isherwood
yesterday
@isherwood - have you seen problems with foam? I did the drilling for a friend that used this method but I don't know how it's held up for him. I wouldn't have thought of foam as reliable enough, but I did see there were a lot of DIY videos on YouTube talking about foam.
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
It compresses and degrades over time, especially where freeze-thaw cycles occur and where there's regular vibration, such as from foot traffic. That said, I'm talking about commonly available cans of urethane. Maybe there's something more dense to be had.
– isherwood
yesterday
There is ... not sure if something like this is available in small quantities - specialty-products.com/spi_products/eco-rise-3-0 ... I am sure that my friend used something from the helpful hardware place
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
2
I used car jacks to lift smaller sections ( 4' X 2.5' ) and pushed in rocks ; it takes time and work but can be done . Scissors jacks can fit into a fairly low space. Crank it up, put in second jack, remove first jack and put rock into the hole under the jack , repeat,repeat,repeat.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
One method to correct this is to jack up the sunken edge to its original height and fill the space between the slab and the ground underneath with polyurethane expanding foam. The details of the process are way beyond an answer here, but in a nutshell:
You dig a trench along the sunken edge so you can get jacks under the slab then slowly, carefully jack it into position. Once it's in position, you drill holes through the slab and squirt the expanding foam into the void below. Once the foam sets you can remove the jacks, backfill the trench you dug, and you're set.
Note - per comments - the spray foam that's readily available for filling gaps and cracks is probably not what you want, they make specialty foam for this purpose.
Note that this doesn't necessarily fix whatever made the slab sink. If it was just settling of the soil under the slab it might not happen again and you're done. If there is water runoff eroding the soil under the slab, it's likely the soil under the slab and foam will erode again. Whatever method you use to fix this - even if you remove and replace the slab - you'll want to remedy any drainage problems first so that your fix holds.
I wouldn't use foam. Your procedure is fine, but foam isn't a reliable support.
– isherwood
yesterday
@isherwood - have you seen problems with foam? I did the drilling for a friend that used this method but I don't know how it's held up for him. I wouldn't have thought of foam as reliable enough, but I did see there were a lot of DIY videos on YouTube talking about foam.
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
It compresses and degrades over time, especially where freeze-thaw cycles occur and where there's regular vibration, such as from foot traffic. That said, I'm talking about commonly available cans of urethane. Maybe there's something more dense to be had.
– isherwood
yesterday
There is ... not sure if something like this is available in small quantities - specialty-products.com/spi_products/eco-rise-3-0 ... I am sure that my friend used something from the helpful hardware place
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
2
I used car jacks to lift smaller sections ( 4' X 2.5' ) and pushed in rocks ; it takes time and work but can be done . Scissors jacks can fit into a fairly low space. Crank it up, put in second jack, remove first jack and put rock into the hole under the jack , repeat,repeat,repeat.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
One method to correct this is to jack up the sunken edge to its original height and fill the space between the slab and the ground underneath with polyurethane expanding foam. The details of the process are way beyond an answer here, but in a nutshell:
You dig a trench along the sunken edge so you can get jacks under the slab then slowly, carefully jack it into position. Once it's in position, you drill holes through the slab and squirt the expanding foam into the void below. Once the foam sets you can remove the jacks, backfill the trench you dug, and you're set.
Note - per comments - the spray foam that's readily available for filling gaps and cracks is probably not what you want, they make specialty foam for this purpose.
Note that this doesn't necessarily fix whatever made the slab sink. If it was just settling of the soil under the slab it might not happen again and you're done. If there is water runoff eroding the soil under the slab, it's likely the soil under the slab and foam will erode again. Whatever method you use to fix this - even if you remove and replace the slab - you'll want to remedy any drainage problems first so that your fix holds.
One method to correct this is to jack up the sunken edge to its original height and fill the space between the slab and the ground underneath with polyurethane expanding foam. The details of the process are way beyond an answer here, but in a nutshell:
You dig a trench along the sunken edge so you can get jacks under the slab then slowly, carefully jack it into position. Once it's in position, you drill holes through the slab and squirt the expanding foam into the void below. Once the foam sets you can remove the jacks, backfill the trench you dug, and you're set.
Note - per comments - the spray foam that's readily available for filling gaps and cracks is probably not what you want, they make specialty foam for this purpose.
Note that this doesn't necessarily fix whatever made the slab sink. If it was just settling of the soil under the slab it might not happen again and you're done. If there is water runoff eroding the soil under the slab, it's likely the soil under the slab and foam will erode again. Whatever method you use to fix this - even if you remove and replace the slab - you'll want to remedy any drainage problems first so that your fix holds.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
12.9k11538
12.9k11538
I wouldn't use foam. Your procedure is fine, but foam isn't a reliable support.
– isherwood
yesterday
@isherwood - have you seen problems with foam? I did the drilling for a friend that used this method but I don't know how it's held up for him. I wouldn't have thought of foam as reliable enough, but I did see there were a lot of DIY videos on YouTube talking about foam.
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
It compresses and degrades over time, especially where freeze-thaw cycles occur and where there's regular vibration, such as from foot traffic. That said, I'm talking about commonly available cans of urethane. Maybe there's something more dense to be had.
– isherwood
yesterday
There is ... not sure if something like this is available in small quantities - specialty-products.com/spi_products/eco-rise-3-0 ... I am sure that my friend used something from the helpful hardware place
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
2
I used car jacks to lift smaller sections ( 4' X 2.5' ) and pushed in rocks ; it takes time and work but can be done . Scissors jacks can fit into a fairly low space. Crank it up, put in second jack, remove first jack and put rock into the hole under the jack , repeat,repeat,repeat.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
I wouldn't use foam. Your procedure is fine, but foam isn't a reliable support.
– isherwood
yesterday
@isherwood - have you seen problems with foam? I did the drilling for a friend that used this method but I don't know how it's held up for him. I wouldn't have thought of foam as reliable enough, but I did see there were a lot of DIY videos on YouTube talking about foam.
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
It compresses and degrades over time, especially where freeze-thaw cycles occur and where there's regular vibration, such as from foot traffic. That said, I'm talking about commonly available cans of urethane. Maybe there's something more dense to be had.
– isherwood
yesterday
There is ... not sure if something like this is available in small quantities - specialty-products.com/spi_products/eco-rise-3-0 ... I am sure that my friend used something from the helpful hardware place
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
2
I used car jacks to lift smaller sections ( 4' X 2.5' ) and pushed in rocks ; it takes time and work but can be done . Scissors jacks can fit into a fairly low space. Crank it up, put in second jack, remove first jack and put rock into the hole under the jack , repeat,repeat,repeat.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
I wouldn't use foam. Your procedure is fine, but foam isn't a reliable support.
– isherwood
yesterday
I wouldn't use foam. Your procedure is fine, but foam isn't a reliable support.
– isherwood
yesterday
@isherwood - have you seen problems with foam? I did the drilling for a friend that used this method but I don't know how it's held up for him. I wouldn't have thought of foam as reliable enough, but I did see there were a lot of DIY videos on YouTube talking about foam.
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
@isherwood - have you seen problems with foam? I did the drilling for a friend that used this method but I don't know how it's held up for him. I wouldn't have thought of foam as reliable enough, but I did see there were a lot of DIY videos on YouTube talking about foam.
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
It compresses and degrades over time, especially where freeze-thaw cycles occur and where there's regular vibration, such as from foot traffic. That said, I'm talking about commonly available cans of urethane. Maybe there's something more dense to be had.
– isherwood
yesterday
It compresses and degrades over time, especially where freeze-thaw cycles occur and where there's regular vibration, such as from foot traffic. That said, I'm talking about commonly available cans of urethane. Maybe there's something more dense to be had.
– isherwood
yesterday
There is ... not sure if something like this is available in small quantities - specialty-products.com/spi_products/eco-rise-3-0 ... I am sure that my friend used something from the helpful hardware place
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
There is ... not sure if something like this is available in small quantities - specialty-products.com/spi_products/eco-rise-3-0 ... I am sure that my friend used something from the helpful hardware place
– batsplatsterson
yesterday
2
2
I used car jacks to lift smaller sections ( 4' X 2.5' ) and pushed in rocks ; it takes time and work but can be done . Scissors jacks can fit into a fairly low space. Crank it up, put in second jack, remove first jack and put rock into the hole under the jack , repeat,repeat,repeat.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
I used car jacks to lift smaller sections ( 4' X 2.5' ) and pushed in rocks ; it takes time and work but can be done . Scissors jacks can fit into a fairly low space. Crank it up, put in second jack, remove first jack and put rock into the hole under the jack , repeat,repeat,repeat.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
Maesumi is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Maesumi is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Maesumi is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Maesumi is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
I would imagine you could pour self-leveling cement on top of the sunken slab. It will (as it says on the tin) level itself on the surface. You'd probably have to create a dam to prevent it from running off the low edge. You may need to rough up the surface of the existing slab to create a key so they stick together well, or maybe even some holes for it to key into. You'd probably need to rough up the surface as it cures so it's not slick under wet feet. You may want to investigate and fix the cause of the sinking first, though. (Not enough detail/experience to warrant a full answer.)
– FreeMan
yesterday