Heating basement floor with water heaterIs a space heater or my window heating unit more energy...
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Heating basement floor with water heater
Is a space heater or my window heating unit more energy efficient?Vinyl tile installation over a concrete basement floor with moistureUnderfloor solar heatingis cork underlayment on a concrete basement floor a workable proposition?Heating system is heating the radiators instead of the hot water - why?Using regular water heater for hydronic radiatorsAnyone installed a hot water coil in their HVAC ductwork to increase heat pump efficiency?What is this hole in my concrete basement floor?Leveling bathroom floor with purlins (surface shims, leveling strips)under tubBubbles in water heater system
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
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Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
New contributor
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
yesterday
add a comment |
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
New contributor
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
basement heating floor
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
New contributor
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
New contributor
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
New contributor
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
asked yesterday
Joe DuniganJoe Dunigan
326
326
New contributor
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
yesterday
add a comment |
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
yesterday
1
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
1
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
yesterday
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
yesterday
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to you
www.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available 
www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
yesterday
|
show 5 more comments
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
22 hours ago
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
yesterday
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
yesterday
|
show 5 more comments
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
yesterday
|
show 5 more comments
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
edited yesterday
isherwood
49.2k456125
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
answered yesterday
Joe FalaJoe Fala
2,104117
2,104117
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
yesterday
|
show 5 more comments
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
1
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
yesterday
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
yesterday
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
yesterday
|
show 5 more comments
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
22 hours ago
add a comment |
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
22 hours ago
add a comment |
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
answered yesterday
isherwoodisherwood
49.2k456125
49.2k456125
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
22 hours ago
add a comment |
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
22 hours ago
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
22 hours ago
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
22 hours ago
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
yesterday
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
yesterday
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
answered yesterday
d.georged.george
5,8632814
5,8632814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
yesterday
add a comment |
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
yesterday
3
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
yesterday
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
yesterday
1
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
yesterday
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
yesterday
add a comment |
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Joe Dunigan is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
yesterday
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
yesterday