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Can I frame a new window without adding jack studs?
How do I build a square window frame in an off-square opening?How can I install a window air conditioner in a metal window frame?Can I install windows into a concrete rough opening without wood buck?How heavy is too heavy? mounting heavy window planter boxesCan I demo plaster walls but somehow keep the window casing?Blind stop for replacement window in rough openingHeader for new windowHow can I replace a load-bearing header and jack studs without disturbing siding?Window framing gaps and split woodHow to frame a rough opening on an existing header?
I'd like to add a small window to a blank wall above a tub/shower, without removing all of the tile (interior) or stucco (exterior) below the new opening to add jack studs. Is that possible, using framing angles on the existing studs?
One of the 2 studs that would be "promoted" to a king stud is already doubled 2x4s. The window would use 3 stud bays (cutting 2 existing studs). The work would not be inspected. The header would sit against the top plate (so no studs above the opening).
windows timber-framing
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
add a comment |
I'd like to add a small window to a blank wall above a tub/shower, without removing all of the tile (interior) or stucco (exterior) below the new opening to add jack studs. Is that possible, using framing angles on the existing studs?
One of the 2 studs that would be "promoted" to a king stud is already doubled 2x4s. The window would use 3 stud bays (cutting 2 existing studs). The work would not be inspected. The header would sit against the top plate (so no studs above the opening).
windows timber-framing
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
add a comment |
I'd like to add a small window to a blank wall above a tub/shower, without removing all of the tile (interior) or stucco (exterior) below the new opening to add jack studs. Is that possible, using framing angles on the existing studs?
One of the 2 studs that would be "promoted" to a king stud is already doubled 2x4s. The window would use 3 stud bays (cutting 2 existing studs). The work would not be inspected. The header would sit against the top plate (so no studs above the opening).
windows timber-framing
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
I'd like to add a small window to a blank wall above a tub/shower, without removing all of the tile (interior) or stucco (exterior) below the new opening to add jack studs. Is that possible, using framing angles on the existing studs?
One of the 2 studs that would be "promoted" to a king stud is already doubled 2x4s. The window would use 3 stud bays (cutting 2 existing studs). The work would not be inspected. The header would sit against the top plate (so no studs above the opening).
windows timber-framing
windows timber-framing
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
asked 2 hours ago
Phil EsraPhil Esra
373222
373222
add a comment |
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
Yes, but you'd need to repurpose existing common studs as jack studs. This may mean using a wider (longer) header than would ordinarily be needed. Obviously this means opening up the wall more than you'd maybe like, but it's all kept up above the tub where it's more easily repairable.
_________________________________________________
_________________________________________________ <-- double plate
_________________________________________________ <-- top plate
header
________________________________________________
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | <-- existing common
| | | | | rough | | | | | stud, cut to
| | | | | opening | | | | | header height
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| |____|_|_|________________________|_|_|____| |
| |__________________________________________| |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | <-------- | | --- existing common studs
| | | | | | | | cut off at sill height
If this is a load-bearing wall, you probably want to install a temporary wall just inside the tub to support the joists. Chances are the wall as a system will carry the weight, but you want to prevent drywall cracks, etc.
- Pre-cut a few studs to the ceiling height minus 3", and cut two plates suitable for the space.
- Pad a 2x4 plate with a blanket or other padding to protect your ceiling. Have an assistant hold the plate against the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists.
- Set a plate on the floor below it.
- Tip your pre-cut studs in place, setting one end and driving the other with a hammer until plumb (or snug, whichever comes first). Spare your ceiling and drive the bottom end where possible.
- Try to position one stud roughly under each joist.
- Friction will more or less hold everything in place, but run some 3" gold screws in on a toenail angle to be sure.
Keep an eye on things as you start to work on the window opening. Watch upper floors for movement at doorways, etc. There shouldn't be any.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
Ah, perfect. This would require temporarily removing 4 supports of the top plate. Can that be done as a single step, or does the top plate need to be braced somehow before the header goes in?
– Phil Esra
2 hours ago
1
This is some outstanding ascii art!
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
Awesome. In this case t's a single story, no attic, lightweight shingles, and abutting the corner of the original house, so there shouldn't be a lot of drama.
– Phil Esra
1 hour ago
add a comment |
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1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Yes, but you'd need to repurpose existing common studs as jack studs. This may mean using a wider (longer) header than would ordinarily be needed. Obviously this means opening up the wall more than you'd maybe like, but it's all kept up above the tub where it's more easily repairable.
_________________________________________________
_________________________________________________ <-- double plate
_________________________________________________ <-- top plate
header
________________________________________________
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | <-- existing common
| | | | | rough | | | | | stud, cut to
| | | | | opening | | | | | header height
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| |____|_|_|________________________|_|_|____| |
| |__________________________________________| |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | <-------- | | --- existing common studs
| | | | | | | | cut off at sill height
If this is a load-bearing wall, you probably want to install a temporary wall just inside the tub to support the joists. Chances are the wall as a system will carry the weight, but you want to prevent drywall cracks, etc.
- Pre-cut a few studs to the ceiling height minus 3", and cut two plates suitable for the space.
- Pad a 2x4 plate with a blanket or other padding to protect your ceiling. Have an assistant hold the plate against the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists.
- Set a plate on the floor below it.
- Tip your pre-cut studs in place, setting one end and driving the other with a hammer until plumb (or snug, whichever comes first). Spare your ceiling and drive the bottom end where possible.
- Try to position one stud roughly under each joist.
- Friction will more or less hold everything in place, but run some 3" gold screws in on a toenail angle to be sure.
Keep an eye on things as you start to work on the window opening. Watch upper floors for movement at doorways, etc. There shouldn't be any.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
Ah, perfect. This would require temporarily removing 4 supports of the top plate. Can that be done as a single step, or does the top plate need to be braced somehow before the header goes in?
– Phil Esra
2 hours ago
1
This is some outstanding ascii art!
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
Awesome. In this case t's a single story, no attic, lightweight shingles, and abutting the corner of the original house, so there shouldn't be a lot of drama.
– Phil Esra
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Yes, but you'd need to repurpose existing common studs as jack studs. This may mean using a wider (longer) header than would ordinarily be needed. Obviously this means opening up the wall more than you'd maybe like, but it's all kept up above the tub where it's more easily repairable.
_________________________________________________
_________________________________________________ <-- double plate
_________________________________________________ <-- top plate
header
________________________________________________
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | <-- existing common
| | | | | rough | | | | | stud, cut to
| | | | | opening | | | | | header height
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| |____|_|_|________________________|_|_|____| |
| |__________________________________________| |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | <-------- | | --- existing common studs
| | | | | | | | cut off at sill height
If this is a load-bearing wall, you probably want to install a temporary wall just inside the tub to support the joists. Chances are the wall as a system will carry the weight, but you want to prevent drywall cracks, etc.
- Pre-cut a few studs to the ceiling height minus 3", and cut two plates suitable for the space.
- Pad a 2x4 plate with a blanket or other padding to protect your ceiling. Have an assistant hold the plate against the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists.
- Set a plate on the floor below it.
- Tip your pre-cut studs in place, setting one end and driving the other with a hammer until plumb (or snug, whichever comes first). Spare your ceiling and drive the bottom end where possible.
- Try to position one stud roughly under each joist.
- Friction will more or less hold everything in place, but run some 3" gold screws in on a toenail angle to be sure.
Keep an eye on things as you start to work on the window opening. Watch upper floors for movement at doorways, etc. There shouldn't be any.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
Ah, perfect. This would require temporarily removing 4 supports of the top plate. Can that be done as a single step, or does the top plate need to be braced somehow before the header goes in?
– Phil Esra
2 hours ago
1
This is some outstanding ascii art!
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
Awesome. In this case t's a single story, no attic, lightweight shingles, and abutting the corner of the original house, so there shouldn't be a lot of drama.
– Phil Esra
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Yes, but you'd need to repurpose existing common studs as jack studs. This may mean using a wider (longer) header than would ordinarily be needed. Obviously this means opening up the wall more than you'd maybe like, but it's all kept up above the tub where it's more easily repairable.
_________________________________________________
_________________________________________________ <-- double plate
_________________________________________________ <-- top plate
header
________________________________________________
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | <-- existing common
| | | | | rough | | | | | stud, cut to
| | | | | opening | | | | | header height
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| |____|_|_|________________________|_|_|____| |
| |__________________________________________| |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | <-------- | | --- existing common studs
| | | | | | | | cut off at sill height
If this is a load-bearing wall, you probably want to install a temporary wall just inside the tub to support the joists. Chances are the wall as a system will carry the weight, but you want to prevent drywall cracks, etc.
- Pre-cut a few studs to the ceiling height minus 3", and cut two plates suitable for the space.
- Pad a 2x4 plate with a blanket or other padding to protect your ceiling. Have an assistant hold the plate against the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists.
- Set a plate on the floor below it.
- Tip your pre-cut studs in place, setting one end and driving the other with a hammer until plumb (or snug, whichever comes first). Spare your ceiling and drive the bottom end where possible.
- Try to position one stud roughly under each joist.
- Friction will more or less hold everything in place, but run some 3" gold screws in on a toenail angle to be sure.
Keep an eye on things as you start to work on the window opening. Watch upper floors for movement at doorways, etc. There shouldn't be any.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
Yes, but you'd need to repurpose existing common studs as jack studs. This may mean using a wider (longer) header than would ordinarily be needed. Obviously this means opening up the wall more than you'd maybe like, but it's all kept up above the tub where it's more easily repairable.
_________________________________________________
_________________________________________________ <-- double plate
_________________________________________________ <-- top plate
header
________________________________________________
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | <-- existing common
| | | | | rough | | | | | stud, cut to
| | | | | opening | | | | | header height
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | |
| |____|_|_|________________________|_|_|____| |
| |__________________________________________| |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | <-------- | | --- existing common studs
| | | | | | | | cut off at sill height
If this is a load-bearing wall, you probably want to install a temporary wall just inside the tub to support the joists. Chances are the wall as a system will carry the weight, but you want to prevent drywall cracks, etc.
- Pre-cut a few studs to the ceiling height minus 3", and cut two plates suitable for the space.
- Pad a 2x4 plate with a blanket or other padding to protect your ceiling. Have an assistant hold the plate against the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists.
- Set a plate on the floor below it.
- Tip your pre-cut studs in place, setting one end and driving the other with a hammer until plumb (or snug, whichever comes first). Spare your ceiling and drive the bottom end where possible.
- Try to position one stud roughly under each joist.
- Friction will more or less hold everything in place, but run some 3" gold screws in on a toenail angle to be sure.
Keep an eye on things as you start to work on the window opening. Watch upper floors for movement at doorways, etc. There shouldn't be any.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
edited 1 hour ago
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
49.4k456126
49.4k456126
Ah, perfect. This would require temporarily removing 4 supports of the top plate. Can that be done as a single step, or does the top plate need to be braced somehow before the header goes in?
– Phil Esra
2 hours ago
1
This is some outstanding ascii art!
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
Awesome. In this case t's a single story, no attic, lightweight shingles, and abutting the corner of the original house, so there shouldn't be a lot of drama.
– Phil Esra
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Ah, perfect. This would require temporarily removing 4 supports of the top plate. Can that be done as a single step, or does the top plate need to be braced somehow before the header goes in?
– Phil Esra
2 hours ago
1
This is some outstanding ascii art!
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
Awesome. In this case t's a single story, no attic, lightweight shingles, and abutting the corner of the original house, so there shouldn't be a lot of drama.
– Phil Esra
1 hour ago
Ah, perfect. This would require temporarily removing 4 supports of the top plate. Can that be done as a single step, or does the top plate need to be braced somehow before the header goes in?
– Phil Esra
2 hours ago
Ah, perfect. This would require temporarily removing 4 supports of the top plate. Can that be done as a single step, or does the top plate need to be braced somehow before the header goes in?
– Phil Esra
2 hours ago
1
1
This is some outstanding ascii art!
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
This is some outstanding ascii art!
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
Awesome. In this case t's a single story, no attic, lightweight shingles, and abutting the corner of the original house, so there shouldn't be a lot of drama.
– Phil Esra
1 hour ago
Awesome. In this case t's a single story, no attic, lightweight shingles, and abutting the corner of the original house, so there shouldn't be a lot of drama.
– Phil Esra
1 hour ago
add a comment |
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