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Is this a crown race?
Trouble With Upper Tube Race InstallationSolutions for a slightly loose crown raceSplit crown “race” possibly dangerous?Installing new threadless headset: how to set the crown ring and its rubber ring?Can't adjust headset correctlyQuery on bearing / race sizingHow to assemble this headset?A shim between bottom headset cup and bearingUnobtainium headset size?Hole in fork crown welding seam
I've bought a headset and I'm not exactly sure what goes where:
Presumably, the thing on the left bottom corner would be crown race, but it's not closed and doesn't really fit snugly to the bottom of the stem (rotates freely), which has 30 mm in diameter (the rest of the stem apart from the bottom has 28.6 mm). Is this how it's supposed to be or am I missing some part?... A photo from the other side:
The other ring in the middle is narrower.
headset
add a comment |
I've bought a headset and I'm not exactly sure what goes where:
Presumably, the thing on the left bottom corner would be crown race, but it's not closed and doesn't really fit snugly to the bottom of the stem (rotates freely), which has 30 mm in diameter (the rest of the stem apart from the bottom has 28.6 mm). Is this how it's supposed to be or am I missing some part?... A photo from the other side:
The other ring in the middle is narrower.
headset
How freely does it rotate on the fork?
– Andrew Henle
3 hours ago
add a comment |
I've bought a headset and I'm not exactly sure what goes where:
Presumably, the thing on the left bottom corner would be crown race, but it's not closed and doesn't really fit snugly to the bottom of the stem (rotates freely), which has 30 mm in diameter (the rest of the stem apart from the bottom has 28.6 mm). Is this how it's supposed to be or am I missing some part?... A photo from the other side:
The other ring in the middle is narrower.
headset
I've bought a headset and I'm not exactly sure what goes where:
Presumably, the thing on the left bottom corner would be crown race, but it's not closed and doesn't really fit snugly to the bottom of the stem (rotates freely), which has 30 mm in diameter (the rest of the stem apart from the bottom has 28.6 mm). Is this how it's supposed to be or am I missing some part?... A photo from the other side:
The other ring in the middle is narrower.
headset
headset
asked 3 hours ago
ArtefactoArtefacto
211211
211211
How freely does it rotate on the fork?
– Andrew Henle
3 hours ago
add a comment |
How freely does it rotate on the fork?
– Andrew Henle
3 hours ago
How freely does it rotate on the fork?
– Andrew Henle
3 hours ago
How freely does it rotate on the fork?
– Andrew Henle
3 hours ago
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
Yes, the piece in the lower left is the crown race. Split types (with the slit) should gently pinch onto the crown race seat of the fork. What's important with that type is that there's zero play (slop or free movement) between the race and the fork. It will be able to turn but shouldn't be able to just spin freely.
If there is play or free spinning, you could go a couple different directions. You could measure carefully (with a caliper) and determine whether the race internal diameter is oversized and/or if the fork's crown race seat is undersized. Then you could get a different one of whichever is causing the problem.
Alternatively, if you just want to make the parts you have work, a good approach here may be finding a shop that has a Stein knurling tool, which is a very fast way of slightly raising the surface of the material, for round parts that are supposed to fit just a little bit snugger than they are.
The other piece is the compression ring, which goes between the upper bearing and the top plate.
add a comment |
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1 Answer
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1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Yes, the piece in the lower left is the crown race. Split types (with the slit) should gently pinch onto the crown race seat of the fork. What's important with that type is that there's zero play (slop or free movement) between the race and the fork. It will be able to turn but shouldn't be able to just spin freely.
If there is play or free spinning, you could go a couple different directions. You could measure carefully (with a caliper) and determine whether the race internal diameter is oversized and/or if the fork's crown race seat is undersized. Then you could get a different one of whichever is causing the problem.
Alternatively, if you just want to make the parts you have work, a good approach here may be finding a shop that has a Stein knurling tool, which is a very fast way of slightly raising the surface of the material, for round parts that are supposed to fit just a little bit snugger than they are.
The other piece is the compression ring, which goes between the upper bearing and the top plate.
add a comment |
Yes, the piece in the lower left is the crown race. Split types (with the slit) should gently pinch onto the crown race seat of the fork. What's important with that type is that there's zero play (slop or free movement) between the race and the fork. It will be able to turn but shouldn't be able to just spin freely.
If there is play or free spinning, you could go a couple different directions. You could measure carefully (with a caliper) and determine whether the race internal diameter is oversized and/or if the fork's crown race seat is undersized. Then you could get a different one of whichever is causing the problem.
Alternatively, if you just want to make the parts you have work, a good approach here may be finding a shop that has a Stein knurling tool, which is a very fast way of slightly raising the surface of the material, for round parts that are supposed to fit just a little bit snugger than they are.
The other piece is the compression ring, which goes between the upper bearing and the top plate.
add a comment |
Yes, the piece in the lower left is the crown race. Split types (with the slit) should gently pinch onto the crown race seat of the fork. What's important with that type is that there's zero play (slop or free movement) between the race and the fork. It will be able to turn but shouldn't be able to just spin freely.
If there is play or free spinning, you could go a couple different directions. You could measure carefully (with a caliper) and determine whether the race internal diameter is oversized and/or if the fork's crown race seat is undersized. Then you could get a different one of whichever is causing the problem.
Alternatively, if you just want to make the parts you have work, a good approach here may be finding a shop that has a Stein knurling tool, which is a very fast way of slightly raising the surface of the material, for round parts that are supposed to fit just a little bit snugger than they are.
The other piece is the compression ring, which goes between the upper bearing and the top plate.
Yes, the piece in the lower left is the crown race. Split types (with the slit) should gently pinch onto the crown race seat of the fork. What's important with that type is that there's zero play (slop or free movement) between the race and the fork. It will be able to turn but shouldn't be able to just spin freely.
If there is play or free spinning, you could go a couple different directions. You could measure carefully (with a caliper) and determine whether the race internal diameter is oversized and/or if the fork's crown race seat is undersized. Then you could get a different one of whichever is causing the problem.
Alternatively, if you just want to make the parts you have work, a good approach here may be finding a shop that has a Stein knurling tool, which is a very fast way of slightly raising the surface of the material, for round parts that are supposed to fit just a little bit snugger than they are.
The other piece is the compression ring, which goes between the upper bearing and the top plate.
answered 3 hours ago
Nathan KnutsonNathan Knutson
24k12060
24k12060
add a comment |
add a comment |
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How freely does it rotate on the fork?
– Andrew Henle
3 hours ago